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Ordro Q505W 1296p Dashcam review

Disclaimer: Camera provided by Buy here :

After reviewing excellent 1080P cameras(Mobius and SJCAM M10), I was pretty excited to review a 1296P dashcam. On paper, it sounds very nice. Higher resolution means better chance of catching the number plate, and better overall quality.

Unfortunately, the Ordro Q505W disappoints . Sure, its a 92$ 1296p dashcam, but with the abysmally low bitrate, it does not really feel really good. There are a couple of pluses though. Exposure and colors are pretty accurate, and the WIFI interface is good to use. But in the end, the overall quality is not very good. If you are able to get a much higher discount, well you can take a look at it, but at 92$, there are other options available.

Some screenshots(Click to see full size)

The Daytime footage has pleasing colors and exposure is good even against the sun. But the sharpness is clearly lacking

Daytime footage   Into the sun


The Night footage is quite bad. Even on well lit streets, its barely acceptable.

Night 2Night 1


And finally, lets take a look at the review video


TL;DR : Not recommended

SJCAM M10 review

Dashcam yay!
So I got a new dashcam.
Or should I say, I got another dashcam.
Technically speaking its my third.

But with SJ1000 going boom(things break when handled hard you see), I needed a replacement.
Well, there is my mobious, works great, stellar community support, and stellar image quality too… But you see, that I use for a special purpose.
Primarily, timelapses, and other funky stuff.

I still needed something which can be used underwater, and used as a backup cam.
To be frank, I wanted a SJ4000, without WIFI of course, but the bulk was putting me off. The SJ1000 was also pretty heavy, and this I do not like. So, enter the SJ M10.
Same chipset, similar mounts but lighter and smaller. Not as small as the polaroid cube, but then polaroid cube costs quite a bit more.

So how is the image quality?
Well, its quite good. It has to be, its one of the best chipsets in budget cams.
Sure, it tends to underexpose a bit, but you can up the exposure a notch if that’s what you want.

Anyways, here are a couple of sample videos
First we look at how it performs as a Dashcam.
I have taken 4 different scenes
First is against the sun, second is normal, third is to show the slight vibration which might creep in, but its fixable, and last but not the least, the night shot capability.

Second, we will see how it does underwater.
As you can see, the white balance is handled perfectly, so is the exposure. Why would you spend over 250$ on a camera not even as capable?

The casing held up for many days of underwater use. No leaks at all.

Other things to note

  • You get waterproof case and action mounts, no car mount or charging cable
  • A car mount can be had for 2-3$, as for charging, your cell phone micro USB charger will do fine
  • When using the non waterproof mount, insert a small strip of paper between the mount and the camera at the bottom, and all the shake will go away
  • Increase exposure by one notch if you are using it for show off videos rather than documenting your driving. It makes the image brighter and more pleasing

Time for a few pictures

In the box


The full collection of mounts and sticky tapes. There are quite a few. For your helmet or handlebars, all you need is there. For your dash, however you got to buy the windshield mount separately. Do note that there is an additional waterproof case cover with the mount.


All the mounts


And last but not the least, there is the cradle mount, which you will use to mount to a tripod or a car suction cup. Good to know that this is much much better than SJ1000. Side by side comparison.


The 60W light bar.. And the light bar buying guide… and stories

So, I got a LED light bar. Yes. 60W of pure Cree 10W each.

Why you may ask. But some why’s do not have an answer. I collect flashlights. Whether its browsing on the streets of pataya, or the street markets in India, I pick up lights. The cheaper the better. From the street I have picked up stuff worth 500rs, and some worth 5rs.

And then there is the big beautiful world of “China”. When you buy a few, you get to know who sells trash, and, whom to trust.

So cree LED light bar was the natural progression. With so many sellers popping up here and there, offering anything from the Sun to the Big Bang itself, I wondered, whats the fuss. Is it a viable hobby for fun and some commerse. We Flashlighters often build stuff, assemble stuff, and sometimes even indulge in group buys. After all, my first “Light Saber came. But that’s another story.

Coming back to the light bar. Some research, and past experience with flashlights meant I had a good head start. I knew the 3W LED is useless for automotive purposes. You can get something with a 100 LEDs, and bask in the warmth of 300W, but all you will do is light up your bonnet, and few things in front.

For long range, you want a single powerful source, with good focus. Think of it this way. You have 55W halogen in your car, and 10W parking lights. Would 6 parking lights outshine your headlamp? No way, right!

So the research began. I know I can only put so many lights on my own vehicle. Rest of the stuff would have to be sold, traded or whatever. But then, there is the itch.

So the first light bar I got was a a high quality 60W light bar. More have followed. A friend down south wanted something big. 200W to be precise, and thankfully, my favorite current manufacturer obliged. I also got a few 12W LED stuff. 5 LED = 60W. You will see a review soon.

And now we come to the light bar Story, or a guide if you may say so.

LED light bars are LED lights arranged in a row. So you have 1 row light bars, most common for 10W LEDs. There is the 5W Epistar bar which is usually a two row bar. there is even a curved bar, though I cannot figure out the use for the same right now.

And then there are the work lights. These are rectangular or circular, and come with 3W LEDs. Very few manufacturers make them with 10W or 12W LED, and if you want these, I would strongly, no.. very very strongly suggest to go for atleast 10W.

Now with that out of the way, lets look at the other thing.

Beam types.

So you have light bars in Spot beam, Flood beam or Combo beam.

Spot beam is where all the individual LEDs are focused into a narrow beam. Good range!

Flood is wide spread beam

Combo is a mix of these two.

So whats the difference between flood and Spot beam. Well here, lemme show you


Do you see the side LEDs? You don’t right? Because there is a frosted glass. And this my friend, is the great Flood beam scam. Its the same LED and lens, but just a diffuser is added. This just cuts the light, and creates the flood illusion. And 90% of sellers use this con.

So how do you make a Flood beam or a spot beam. Well its easy. By moving the lens in front of the Glass, you can create spot beam or Combo beam.

See this pic for example.
True Combo

The edge LEDs have a different beam pattern, wider if you look closer, without using the diffuser. This is true combo beam. My first 60W LED light bar has the diffuser, but length is same.

Then there is the mixed pattern. Here glass is diffused, but lens is also moved. This is used to get a 90+ degree flood beam. You have to put a diffuser here. Haven’t tested any of those yet, but this true combo is indeed a monster.


So this is what sums of LED automotive lighting for you.

Feel free to ask questions. I do not have any light bars with me now. I just have a couple of true 30 degree Work lamps with 12W LED. And review will come soon!